PUERTO
RICO - THE SPANISH VIRGIN ISLANDS?
©1993
Tor Pinney - All Rights Reserved
Calling
Puerto Rico "the Spanish Virgin Islands" is like
calling the Virgins "the West Indian Puerto Rico" -
it's a bit misleading. True, these Caribbean neighbors share
some basic ingredients: both enjoy warm seas, trade winds, and a
year-around tropical climate; both offer exciting sailing
opportunities. But the differences between the two cruising
grounds far exceed the similarities.
The
most obvious difference in Puerto Rico is, of course, the
language. While many Puerto Ricans speak at least some English,
a cruiser will do well to learn a little Español. Even a very
basic vocabulary - "hello", "please",
"thank you", and "where is…?", for
starters - will often suffice. Puerto Ricans are very friendly
people; they go out of their way to be helpful. In fact, I think
it's the people more than anything else that make Puerto Rico
such an inviting destination.
As
a cruising ground, Puerto Rico offers a unique blend of American
familiar and Latin exotic. In the populated boating centers such
as San Juan and Fajardo, sailors enjoy the convenience of large
American supermarkets, department stores, and facilities of
every kind. Yet, in the quieter harbors such as Boqueron and
Culebra, the people, the music, the foods and the sights
conspire to enchant a visitor with a flavor distinctly
Latino-Caribbean.
Puerto
Rican anchorages certainly have fewer crowds than their Virgin
Island counterparts. However, on weekends and holidays a
veritable fleet of local sail and power yachts flock to the
islands east of Fajardo and the harbors around Culebra. In
typical Latin fashion, these are mostly family affairs, often
three generations to a boat! They spread great picnics on the
beach and, with the children splashing and the music pumping,
it's a real fiesta!
Cruising
along Puerto Rico's south coast, the water is alternately murky
and clear. Wherever the water is enclosed within a bay or
harbor, it is usually discolored by the prolific mangroves,
which exude a natural pigment. The coloring is enough to prevent
reading the bottom, even in fairly shallow water. Near the
mouths of rivers, silt clouds the water until it looks downright
brown and muddy. However, around many of Puerto Rico's off-lying
islands and islets, and also close along the shores that are
free of mangroves and rivers, the water is Caribbean clear.
My
personal favorite ports of call in Puerto Rico include Boqueron,
an especially fun place to stop. Boqueron is a ramshackle beach
town on the southwest coast that offers a good anchorage and a
lively, informal nightlife. With its local artists, laid-back
atmosphere, and Puerto Rican holidaymakers, it reminds me of the
way Key West (Florida) might have been 40 years ago! Another
favorite, Playa de Salinas, is an excellent south coast
hurricane hole. The harbor is just a 10-minute taxi ride from
the attractive and accommodating town of Salinas, and adjacent
to some terrific gunk holing in Bahia de Jobos. Of course, we
loved Isla de Culebra with its many fine anchorages and quiet
island lifestyle.
Last
but certainly not least, a few days of land cruising in a rental
car reveals the stunning beauty of Puerto Rico's mountain
ranges, including panoramic vistas, rustic villages, and
tropical rain forests replete with waterfalls.
Puerto
Rico - "the Spanish Virgin Islands?" Well, Puerto Rico
does not match the Virgin Islands' sheer geographic
concentration of scenic anchorages and boating attractions. But
Puerto Rican waters are less crowded, and the rich Latin flavor
lends a unique spice to the cruising. The culture is lively, the
people are friendly, and the cruising is "muy bueno!"
~
End ~
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