Travelogue - 02-25-05                                                                                                                               Links to all Travelogue pages

 

Thailand, page 5

Back in Chiang Rai, a town I've grown to like, I found my way to an especially nice guesthouse named Baan Bua. My room here is clean and bright and only costs 250 Baht a night, about $6.50. It doesn't have air conditioning or a TV, but I don't need them here. Even in mid-afternoon, it's not too hot or humid. Evenings are comfortably cool.

Outside my door is a pretty green courtyard with some tables & chairs scattered around, accented by flowers and broad-leafed plants. It's a pleasant, shady place to hang out, tucked far back from the road's noisy motorbikes and exhaust fumes - an amazingly quiet place considering its mid-town location.

The owner, Brian, is an ex-pat Brit married to a Thai woman. I think she's the legal owner of this guesthouse because foreigners are not allowed to own property in Thailand. Brian has been here 11 years and seems genuinely happy. In fact, the guy positively bubbles with mirth most of the time. I liked him the instant I met him.  .

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Yesterday evening I joined Brian for a beer in the courtyard. With him was another Brit, a retired taxicab driver named Graeme (pronounced gram). We got into some lively discussions on a wide range of  subjects, from women to politics, eventually adjourning to a not-yet-but-soon-to-be-open bar in town belonging to another expatriated European living here with his Thai wife, this fellow a tall, blonde Dutchman who looked to be in his early 30's.

Already there when we arrived was yet another Brit with his Thai girl friend, and also a jolly German policeman here on holiday but planning to retire to Thailand in 7 years. His Thai wife lives with him in Germany now. It was a fun crowd and a happy evening. Eventually Graeme and I had dinner in town and then more beer at Crazy Joe's bar, Crazy Joe being a peculiar little man from Brooklyn who recently lost most of his teeth in a motorcycle accident. His bar girl kept sidling up to me, but I wasn't interested. By this time it was pushing midnight, which is way past my usual bed time. This bar was just around the corner from my guesthouse so I had a short walk home under a full moon. Last I saw of Graeme he was ordering another beer, the bar girl now seated next to him. This morning I woke up late and, happily, alone. That bar girl wasn't much to look at.

What fun to meet all these Chiang Rai ex-pats living here with their Thai women, seemingly happy and more or less prosperous. I still don't feel this place is for me long-term, but I can certainly see the appeal of it. 

Next Entry: 03/04/05